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Lapland - Sami land

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== [[Lapland or Sami Land]] ==
''Sami'' people or ''Laps'' live in subarctic-arctic area, in the north of Scandinavia behind Arctic circle. They have been living natuar life and traveling with Tipi-similar tent in Lapland, the natural conditions have been taf. Sami residents has their own language and spiritual natural religion, similar like Native-American people or Aboriringa in Australia. Sami people lived from rendiers, fishs and berries picking.
"Sami" people or "Laps" live in subarctic-arctic area, in the north of Scandinavia behind Arctic circle. They have been living natuar life and traveling with Tipi-similar tent in Lapland, the natural conditions have been taf. Sami residents has their own language and spiritual natural religion, similar like Native-American people or Aboriringa in Australia. Sami people lived from rendiers, fishs and berries picking. '''Sami people have been suffering a lot from terror of christianity'''
Unfortunately white Europeans came and they have been destroyed Sami culture and life style, like in other places in the world. Christianity was there spread by violence and forbidding old traditions. Sami people were travelling with region of four countries - Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia and all countries charged them for taxes (taxes were charged up to four times). Now, the Scandinavian countries complains about the human rights, but they take children from Sami to internate schools and Sami cildren had forbidden to speak Sami language. Of course, Sami childen were suffering from buyling by childrens and teachers. This is one part of history, that is not learned in schools. It is one of many dark things in history of Finland, Sweden, Norway, Russia. This situation was not in middle-age, but in 20th century. Fortunately, it have been stopped at the end of 20th century.
'''Lapland has very low density of population, there are small villages only.''' Distance between small villages by coast 10-20 km, but in the middle of Lapland 40-100 km. Area around Ivalo-Inari-Karasjohka has relatively warm, but short summer, with 10-20 degrees, rarely 20-30 deg. and ice on lakes stays until May-June. Trees are here still similar to forest in south Scandinavia - pines and birtch trees. In June-July starts mosquito season and swarn swarns of mosquitoes are everywhere. Winter is quite cold, usually -10 to -20 deg. but during arctic vawe -30 to -40 deg. There is all-time Sun on sky and light in June-July and no sunrise, only twillight twilight in noon in December. Snow can be in winter more than 1m high and some roads are temporially closed. Central Lapland is area around Inari-Ivalo-Sevettijarvi-Karasjohka. There are only small hills and plenty of lakes. But more west, by Fi-NO (SE) border are mountains with snow on the top during Summer. Valleys in mountain area are coldest, it can be frost bellow -40 and up to -50 somewhere.Area around '''Olderfjord - Lakselv - Ustjoki - Nuorgam - Tana Bru - Varangebotn - Neiden - Kirkenes''' has shorter and colder summer (snow until June), only 5-20 deg (sometimes 25) during Summer. There are only small birch trees arround arrund a lot of Lakes. There is big clean Tana river by Ustjoki-Nuorgam-Tana Bru and waterfalls close to Neiden in east Finmark. There is too about 4x4 km big area of tundra, swamp with permafrost, about 4 km west from Neiden. Biggest mountainof mountain of Finmark is between Ustjoki and Karasjohkaabout 20 km north from E6, its 940 m high. There is always snow on the top.'''Coast area Honningsvaeg, Nordkapp, Mehamn, Gamvik, Berlevag, Vardo''' is coastal area of Barent sea of begin of north ocean. There is often during summer quite strong and cold wind or even gale and very often rain or snowing, only 3-8 degrees in summer and in winter from zero to -5, sometimes bellow -10, very cold and strong wind with strong snow storm. There are only mossles, bare rock and grass, because of very cold summer and this area has hardest conditions. Especially in Vardo is often strong wind storbstorm, however Vadso, about 50 km far, has quite calm weather. This area has longest days in Summer and longest nights in Winter, but there is cloudy almost everytime. '''Water in lakes and streams, rivers is really clean and drinkable.''' Rivers are relatively cold for swiming. There is no possibility of growing fruits or vegetable in Lapland (only potatoes), but there is aviable another free source. '''Dumpsters behind spuermarkest are often open''' and accesible in many places, in important hitchhicking crossroad too. '''You can camp everywhere''' by lake or forest (almost in all Scandinavia), but Mosquitoes in Summer can be terrible. And most north coast has often wind storm. There are free camping cabins with fireplace in north Finland (whole Finland) and and somewhere in Nowrway too (begin of Kirkeness, close to dumpsters and road). There is '''no train in Lapland''' -North Scandinavia. Some short rail road is in Kirkenes, but it is from mine to harbour. There is rail road around Murmansk. in Russia. Only not so far behind Arctic circle some trains go (most north is to Kiruna, Narvik), but with not so many trains. Buses in Lapland are quite expensive (about Eur 20 per 100 km) and buses goes 1-2 times per day. It is difficult to get inside bus without ticket. '''Hitchhiking cars in Lapland-Finmark is quite easy.''' There are mot so many roads and people goes often for long distance (50-500 km), because distances between towns and villages are big, usually 20-100 km. There is not so big traffic, abou one car per 1-3 min (or even one car per 5-20 min somewhere), but waiting time in main roads at least (E6, E75, 92) is usually less than average in Europe, usually less than one hour. But sometimes, you can stack 5 hours. But waiting in rain or with mosquitoes swarns or wind by coast is not nice. And winter temperature is except coast -10 to -25 usually (sometimes above 0, sometimes bellow -40), however coast has worse conditions, because of strong cold winds with rain and snowing. Traffic in winter is lower, many tourist in summer goes to Arctic and Nordkapp. And some roads are closed temoprially. It can be in Lapland more that 1 m snow. In winter (October - May), you can hitchhike snowplow.
'''Water in lakes and streams, rivers is really clean and drinkable.''' Rivers are relatively cold for swiming, 6-10 degrees in Summer. There is no possibility of growing fruits or vegetable in Lapland (only potatoes), but there is aviable another free source. '''Dumpsters behind supermarkets are often open''' and accessible in many places, in important hitchhiking crossroad too. '''You can camp everywhere''' by lake or forest (almost in all Scandinavia), but Mosquitoes in Summer can be terrible. And most north coast has often wind storm. There are free camping cabins with fireplace in north Finland (whole Finland) and and somewhere in Nowrway too (begin of Kirkeness, close to dumpsters and road). There is '''no train in Lapland''' -North Scandinavia. Some short rail road is in Kirkenes, but it is from mine to harbor. There is rail road around Murmansk. in Russia. Only not so far behind Arctic circle some trains go (most north is to Kiruna, Narvik), but with not so many trains. Buses in Lapland are quite expensive (about Eur 20 per 100 km) and buses goes 1-2 times per day. It is difficult to get inside bus without ticket. '''Hitchhiking cars in Lapland-Finmark is quite easy.''' There are mot so many roads and people goes often for long distance (50-500 km), because distances between towns and villages are big, usually 20-100 km. There is not so big traffic, abou one car per 1-3 min (or even one car per 5-20 min somewhere), but waiting time in main roads at least (E6, E75, 92) is usually less than average in Europe, usually less than one hour. But sometimes, you can stack 5 hours. But waiting in rain or with mosquito swarns or wind by coast is not nice. And winter temperature is except coast -10 to -25 usually (sometimes above 0, sometimes bellow -40), however coast has worse conditions, because of strong cold winds with rain and snowing. Traffic in winter is lower, many tourist in summer goes to Arctic and Nordkapp. And some roads are closed temporially. It can be in Lapland more that 1 m snow. In winter (October - May), you can hitchhike snowplow.
Most north towns with good train conection are - '''Trondheim''' in Norway, '''Umeaa''' in Sweden - Baltic coast, or even '''Boden''', '''Luleaa''', '''Kiruna''', in Finland '''Oulu (Kemi, Rovaniemi)'''. There are four dancing lines, where train crosses Arctic circle. For hitchhiking trains look this page http://hitchwiki.org/en/Train (section '''Dancing behind Arctic circle''').
'''There is no dancing line at most north north parts of Scandinavia.''' There are buses and cars, but it is question, how you can get into bus without ticket. You can try to sneek in back door or just go to back door with backpack and they can forget that you need buy a ticket. In Sweden - it is not possible pay by cash, by credit card only (and it is the same in most of Swedish trains), so you can try tell that you have cash only. But it does not work in Norway and probably not in Finland too. And buses are not going so often too. It is possible to pay only with cash in some Finish buses. You can try to ask for free ride, but hitchhike a bus is hard and probability of success is low.
There are ships around Fjords in north Norway ''Tromso – Alta – Hammefest – Nordkapp – Vardoe – Kirkeness''. But it is really expensive and hitchicking hitchhiking ship or sneeking inside can be quite difficult. You can buy ticket only for one stop and continue, but it is expensive anyway. And there can be leftovers in ship restaurant too (or possiblity possibility to sneeking into buffet). Many ships has long journey and rooms for tourist. Anyway, you will not get place to sleep and ships are quite slow.
Most easy is hitchhiking cars - it is quite easy in Lapland, however traffic is low. People in Lapland are more helpful and they stop. But some roads (smaller one) are really with few cars (it can be one car per hour) and there is often -30 (sometimes even bellow -40) in winter. Bigger roads, like E75, E8, E6, are better. The traffic in Summer is good. Many tourist from west Europa goes to north Scandinavia and Nordkapp. And many Finish people goes to Lapland for summer. There is good traffic, few cars per minute on road E75 Rovaniem – Sodankyla – Ivalo. After Ivalo some cars go to East, close to Russian border, but most of cars goes to Inari. Many cars finish around Inari. There is road from Inari to north, traffic in summer is one car per 1-5 min. But roads splits to three directions in Kankamen, about 25 km after Inari. Many cars goes towards Karasjohka, it is about one car per 2-7 min. About one car per 2-10 min goes to Utsjoki, and on small road to SevettiJarvi and Neiden is traffic low, only one car per 5-20 min. Hitchiking around Utsjoki-Nuorgam is not bad, there is about one car per 3-7 min, and many people stops. There is in Norway – Finmark main road E6. Traffic s here not so big, about one car per 1-5 min, less at evening.
There is big road around Baltic sea from Oulu to Kemi, Tornio Itäinen (SE-FI border) and Lulea in Sweden. It is one station and 58 minutes between Oulu abd Kemi by train. North from Kemi - usually all trains goes to Rovaniemi (one train per day from-to Misi and Kemjärvi). Trains to Tornio Itäinen and more north to Ylitornio, Pello and Kolari are extremely rare. Train from-to Misi and Kemjärvi do not stops between Kemi and Rovaniemi.
But there is road E4 from Oulu to Sweden. It is probably not so easy to find good place in Oulu, hitchiking from Kemi is better. Direction is to Tornio Itäinen, where is cropproadcrossroad. E4 goes to Haparanda (first village in Sweden) and Tore (crossroad – E4 to Finland, E10 to north-west Kiruna, Narvik, and E10 to Lulea). Lulea is first train station in Sweden.Trains from Lulea goes to close town Boden, which is on long dancing line (Stockholm – Gavle – Hudiksvall – Sundsvall – Umea – Boden – Kiruna – Narvik). E10 and E4 together continue to south by baltic coast to Umea.
But we want to go from Kemi to North, by FI-SE border. So you take E4 only to Tornio Itäinen, and there is road E8 to Ylitornio, Pello and Kolari, the same line like train. In pello – road goes little bit away from FI-SE border. If you cath the train (it is not so easy), it does not matter, where you will be kicked out, it is always by road E8. Road E8 continue from Pello to Kolari and it is from Pello to Kolari one train station. Kolari (67,33 degrees north) is the northest Finish train station, it is one of four dancing lines, which cross Arctic circle. Buses and cars goes from Kolari further.
From Alta north-East and from Kárášjohka north-west E6 goes to nordest point Olderfjord (70,47 degrees north). There is E69 from Olderfjord to nordkapp and E6 to Alta and Kárášjohka and Ustjoki.
But from ''Olderfjord'' to north continues E 69 to north by coast of Atlantic to Repvaeg, Kaefjord and from Kaefjord is aaout2 km long tunnel to '''Mageroeya island'''. There is town Honningsvaeg and more north is small village skarsvaegSkarsvaeg. E69 continue on this island to Nordkapp (71.1717 north, 25.8763 East by Google map), which should be nordest most north point of Norway and Europe(accessible by land). But on the map it looks like nordes nordest point is myse around 7 km west-west north – Knivskjellodden (71.18547 north, 25.67638 East by Google map).
'''To Sami land and lakes, Ivalo, Inari, and Finmark – Norway (Tromso, Alta, Nordkapp, Kirkenes, Vardoe)'''
The last town with good train connection is Rovaniemi. North edge of Rovaniemi is on Arctic circle. Only once a day train go to Misi and Kemijärvi, but theese stations are out of main road E75, Rovaniemi is the best. Kemijärvi is close to big lake in Lapland. Misi is small town out of main road.
Hitchhiking on the road '''from Rovaniemi to north''' is good, amount of cars is good at least in Summer. There can be 3-7 cars per minute, lot of tourist from west Europe goes to north. Road '''E75''' goes from Rovaniemi to crossroad in village '''Vikajärvi'''. Road No. 82 goes from Vikajärvi to east, to big lake and Kemijärvi, Misi is about 10 km south from this road. The main road E75 continues to nortnorth, to Sami region.
First bigger town (not small village) is '''Sodankilä''', around 67,4 degrees north. There is crossroad in Sodankilä. E75 goes south to Rovaniemi and north to Inari, E63 goes first to south-east but after a while to south – to Kemijärvi. The road No. 80 goes to Kittilä and from Kittilä to south-west to Kolari. Hitchiking in Sodankilä is good. Plenty cars go at E75 from-to north. Good point is bus stop at north end of Sodankilä. There is big shop, however dumpsters were not checked yet by PeterOB. Ammount Amount of cars is good, few per minute during summer to north. Many tourist with caravan goes there too (to Nordkapp or Kirkeness often). Local drivers pick hitchhickers hitchhikers easily.
More north by E75 is Ivalo, around 68,55 degrees north. Ivalo is probably biggest town in Lapland, with a lot of Sami culture. There is crossroad before bridge. One road goes to east, Murmansk is 303 km far away, but Russian border is only 40 km away. There is K-Market by this crossroad, but PetterOB PeterOB did not found dumpsters with food, just with glass or cans. Good hitchhiking place is behind river, bus stop near church. There are still about 1-3 cars per minute to north (Inari and more), include many tourist in Summer. People are nice here and hitchhiking is easy. Inari is 40 km far.
There are bit north from Ivalo (counple of 10km), around 68,75 degrees are two big lakes. Ukonjärvi lake close to road in east side and Rahajärvi in west. And finally, the Inari is around 68.9 degrees north, at E75, there is town '''Inari''', town of Sami culture. It is about 350 km north from Arctic Circle and Rovaniemi. Inari is not so big town (about 1000 inhabitansresidents). There is in Inari hotel (PeterOB does not found anything in dumpster behind hotel), and K-market. Dumpsters behind K-market are open, lot of black bags were inside. There is big lake close to Inari – Inarijärvi, river or bay through Inari, many small lakes and plenty of mosquitoes in Summer. Inari is in the middle of Sami culture and Lapland, many tourist from south goes there. Many Finish residents have huts there, so you can catch ride even between Helsinki and Inari, if you have. There is even airport in Inari, but in is not possible get in without ticket and it is non-ecological. Inari-Jarvi is super-big and there is river in inari too. Water is clean enough for drinking. There is Sami culture center and Sami museum (10 Eur entry). About 7 km from museum (including 4 km without car) is ''Wilderness Church''. There is free shelter-hut with firewood. It is good place for sleeping. Good hitchiking hitchhiking place is at the end of Inari, bust stop behind river close to Sami Museum.
There is crossroad – one small road by InariJarvi to many cabins and Wilderness church, and one road to North E75. Many cars goes by lake to cabins, on this small road to east, or many cars finish in Inari. Bus stop is just behind crossroad. Only about one car per 1-3 min goes to north, including summer tourist. And about 25 km after Inari, there are two crossroads.
From Skippagurra and Tana Bru goes E6 to East, to big fjord ''(Varangebotn, Vardo, Vadso, Neiden, Kirkenes, Russia - Murmansk)''. '''Varangebotn''' is important place and crossroad with round about. There is road to west (Finland, Karasjohka, Nordkapp, whole Norway) and E75 continue by one side of Fjord to Vadso and Vardo. E6 continues to east - Neiden, permafrost valley, Kirkenes and Russia (Murmansk). E75 continues by coast of fjord to north-est - Vardo and Vadso. All direction on crodssroad has parking with place for stop and hitchhiking. There is fuel station, Cafe and Coop market close to this big crossroad. Coop market has dumpster behind, with lot of food, but dumpster is locked by wire. But it can be open with force by two persons or plyers are better. There is Sami museum and some tree area with walking path and shelters by fjord coast close to this crossroad in Varangebotn. It is possible to sleep in this shelters (tress, end of fjord, by Sami museum) in case of rain. On the main land, before tunnel to Vardo and close to Vadso is quite big reservation '''Varangerhalvoya''' on the main-land with lot of grass, moss and lot of lakes, but onle small trees.
'''Vardo''' is '''most east point of Norway''', but not most east point of Shengen (it is in Finland, close to Joensu). Most east accessible point is coast (70.3722,31.1295), on the east part of iceland is military base Globus II with radar, most east point of Globus II (70.3669,31.1323). There are two islands - natural reservation ''Hornoya og Reinoya'' with lighthouse, but only ships goes there, it is about 1.7 km from Vardo by sea. Most east point is (70.3869,31.1682) Vardo is in north side of Fjord, on small island, there is almost 3 km long tunnel under sea. The road to Vardo is by the sea, with not so many hills. There is mostly grass with no tress, because of cold summer and wind from sea. Summer in Wardo is really cold, with 5-10 degrees only and strong cold wind often, and rain too. It is often big difference in weather between Vadso and Vardo, distance is only about 50 km. Vadso can have calm weather with lot of clouds and Wardo Vardo has strong wind or gale with rain and snow, big vawes (in summer, of course, in winter, ehm) Vadso is biggest town there, with 7000 people. There is by fuel station and K-market with close dumpsters inside Vadso and Rema 1000 with open dumpster behind, at the south end of Vadso, by direction to Varangebotn - there is good hitchhiking place. Vardo is town with 1500-2000 people. It is north-east edge and weather there is with really lot of rain and lot of wind. There are many islands around, with mos and gras only. Waves in Barent sea are big, but water is cold (6-10 degrees in Summer). And you can be wery cold in strong cold wind by Vardo, Gamvick or Nordkapp (Summer here is worse tham winter in Denmark).
There is small airport in Vardo on main land, before about 2800 m long undersea tunnel to vardo. There is crossroad by airport - road to Vardo, to Vadso and south and road to north by coast. This road do not have number and it goes through few really small villages on coast and road ends in '''Hamningberg''' (70.539,30.612). Traffic on this road is very low, 1-3 cars per hour in Summer and cold wind. Another small village is '''Syltefjord''' (70.551,30.078). There is no road from Syltefjord to Vardoe (East), but road 26 goes by river from Syltefjord to west, to '''road 891''' and small town by coast '''Batsfjord''' (70.63,29.70). From Batsfjord goes road 891 to Tana Bru and E6. There is crossroad about 30 km from Batsfjord nowhere inland - road 890 to Batsfjord, mine by coast, and Tana Bru and road 890 to north to '''Berlevag''' on coast (70.862,29.085). From Berlevag goes road 271 to Store Molvik small village by coast (two cars per day ?). However traffic on roads to 890 and 891 to Batsfjord and Berlevag will be quite low, few car per hour.
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