Lapland - Sami land

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Lapland or Sami Land

"Sami" people or "Laps" live in subarctic-arctic area, in the north of Scandinavia behind Arctic circle. They have been living natuar life and traveling with Tipi-similar tent in Lapland, the natural conditions have been taf. Sami residents has their own language and spiritual natural religion, similar like Native-American people or Aboriringa in Australia. Sami people lived from rendiers, fishs and berries picking.

Sami people have been suffering a lot from terror of christianity' Unfortunately white Europeans came and they have been destroyed Sami culture and life style, like in other places in the world. Christianity was there spread by violence and forbidding old traditions. Sami people were travelling with region of four countries - Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia and all countries charged them for taxes (taxes were charged up to four times). Now, the Scandinavian countries complains about the human rights, but they take children from Sami to internate schools and Sami cildren had forbidden to speak Sami language. Of course, Sami childen were suffering from buyling by childrens and teachers. This is one part of history, that is not learned in schools. It is one of many dark things in history of Finland, Sweden, Norway, Russia. This situation was not in middle-age, but in 20th century. Fortunately, it have been stopped at the end of 20th century.

Lapland has very low density of population, there are small villages only. Distance between small villages by coast 10-20 km, but in the middle of Lapland 40-100 km. Area around Ivalo-Inari-Karasjohka has relatively warm, but short summer, with 10-20 degrees, rarely 20-30 deg. and ice on lakes stays until May-June. Trees are here still similar to forest in south Scandinavia - pines and birtch trees. In June-July starts mosquito season and swarn of mosquitoes are everywhere. Winter is quite cold, usually -10 to -20 deg. but during arctic vawe -30 to -40 deg. There is all-time Sun on sky and light in June-July and no sunrise, only twillight in noon in December. Snow can be in winter more than 1m high and some roads are temporially closed. Central Lapland is area around Inari-Ivalo-Sevettijarvi-Karasjohka. There are only small hills and plenty of lakes. But more west, by Fi-NO (SE) border are mountains with snow on the top during Summer. Valleys in mountain area are coldest, it can be frost bellow -40 and up to -50 somewhere. Area around Olderfjord - Lakselv - Ustjoki - Nuorgam - Tana Bru - Varangebotn - Neiden - Kirkenes has shorter and colder summer (snow until June), only 5-20 deg (sometimes 25) during Summer. There are only small birch trees arround a lot of Lakes. There is big clean Tana river by Ustjoki-Nuorgam-Tana Bru and waterfalls close to Neiden in east Finmark. There is too about 4x4 km big area of tundra, swamp with permafrost, about 4 km west from Neiden. Biggest mountainof Finmark is between Ustjoki and Karasjohka. There is always snow on the top. Coast area Honningsvaeg, Nordkapp, Mehamn, Gamvik, Berlevag, Vardo is coastal area of Barent sea of begin of north ocean. There is often during summer quite strong and cold wind or even gale and very often rain or snowing, only 3-8 degrees in summer and in winter from zero to -5, sometimes bellow -10, very cold and strong wind with strong snow storm. There are only mossles, bare rock and grass, because of very cold summer and this area has hardest conditions. Especially in Vardo is often strong wind storb, however Vadso, about 50 km far, has quite calm weather. This area has longest days in Summer and longest nights in Winter, but there is cloudy almost everytime.

Water in lakes and streams, rivers is really clean and drinkable. Rivers are relatively cold for swiming. There is no possibility of growing fruits or vegetable in Lapland (only potatoes), but there is aviable another free source. Dumpsters behind spuermarkest are often open and accesible in many places, in important hitchhicking crossroad too. You can camp everywhere by lake or forest (almost in all Scandinavia), but Mosquitoes in Summer can be terrible. And most north coast has often wind storm. There are free camping cabins with fireplace in north Finland (whole Finland) and and somewhere in Nowrway too (begin of Kirkeness, close to dumpsters and road). There is no train in Lapland -North Scandinavia. Some short rail road is in Kirkenes, but it is from mine to harbour. There is rail road around Murmansk. in Russia. Only not so far behind Arctic circle some trains go (most north is to Kiruna, Narvik), but with not so many trains. Buses in Lapland are quite expensive (about Eur 20 per 100 km) and buses goes 1-2 times per day. It is difficult to get inside bus without ticket. Hitchhiking cars in Lapland-Finmark is quite easy. There are mot so many roads and people goes often for long distance (50-500 km), because distances between towns and villages are big, usually 20-100 km. There is not so big traffic, abou one car per 1-3 min (or even one car per 5-20 min somewhere), but waiting time in main roads at least (E6, E75, 92) is usually less than average in Europe, usually less than one hour. But sometimes, you can stack 5 hours. But waiting in rain or with mosquitoes swarns or wind by coast is not nice. And winter temperature is except coast -10 to -25 usually (sometimes above 0, sometimes bellow -40), however coast has worse conditions, because of strong cold winds with rain and snowing. Traffic in winter is lower, many tourist in summer goes to Arctic and Nordkapp. And some roads are closed temoprially. It can be in Lapland more that 1 m snow. In winter (October - May), you can hitchhike snowplow.

Most north towns with good train conection are - Trondheim in Norway, Umeaa in Sweden - Baltic coast, or even Boden, Luleaa, Kiruna, in Finland Oulu (Kemi, Rovaniemi). There are four dancing lines, where train crosses Arctic circle. For hitchhiking trains look this page (section Dancing behind Arctic circle).

There is no dancing line at most north north parts of Scandinavia. There are buses and cars, but it is question, how you can get into bus without ticket. You can try to sneek in back door or just go to back door with backpack and they can forget that you need buy a ticket. In Sweden - it is not possible pay by cash, by credit card only (and it is the same in most of Swedish trains), so you can try tell that you have cash only. But it does not work in Norway and probably not in Finland too. And buses are not going so often too. It is possible to pay only with cash in some Finish buses. You can try to ask for free ride, but hitchhike a bus is hard and probability of success is low.

There are ships around Fjords in north Norway Tromso – Alta – Hammefest – Nordkapp – Vardoe – Kirkeness. But it is really expensive and hitchicking ship or sneeking inside can be quite difficult. You can buy ticket only for one stop and continue, but it is expensive anyway. And there can be leftovers in ship restaurant too (or possiblity to sneeking into buffet). Many ships has long journey and rooms for tourist. Anyway, you will not get place to sleep and ships are quite slow.

Most easy is hitchhiking cars - it is quite easy in Lapland, however traffic is low. People in Lapland are more helpful and they stop. But some roads (smaller one) are really with few cars (it can be one car per hour) and there is often -30 (sometimes even bellow -40) in winter. Bigger roads, like E75, E8, E6, are better. The traffic in Summer is good. Many tourist from west Europa goes to north Scandinavia and Nordkapp. And many Finish people goes to Lapland for summer. There is good traffic, few cars per minute on road E75 Rovaniem – Sodankyla – Ivalo. After Ivalo some cars go to East, close to Russian border, but most of cars goes to Inari. Many cars finish around Inari. There is road from Inari to north, traffic in summer is one car per 1-5 min. But roads splits to three directions in Kankamen, about 25 km after Inari. Many cars goes towards Karasjohka, it is about one car per 2-7 min. About one car per 2-10 min goes to Utsjoki, and on small road to SevettiJarvi and Neiden is traffic low, only one car per 5-20 min. Hitchiking around Utsjoki-Nuorgam is not bad, there is about one car per 3-7 min, and many people stops. There is in Norway – Finmark main road E6. Traffic s here not so big, about one car per 1-5 min, less at evening.

Situation in winter is much worse. There are less tourist and Finish people from south does not go here so often. Local people drive less often too. Traffic can be very low. Some roads can be temporaly closed because of snow. It can be more than meter of snow around. You can hitchhike snow plow too. There can be one car per few minutes ore one per hour in smaller roads, north from Inari is traffic very low. It is very short day or no day in winter and temperatures are usually from -5 to -30 but sometimes bellow -35 and in some places like Karasjohka below -40 in few days during winter. You need good sleeping bag and lot of clothes, warm shoes, gloves and cap.

Oulu – Kemi – Tornio – Kolari – SAMI LAND - Kilpisjärvi (Mallan Iounnonpuitso, SE-NO-FI point) – Tromso, Finmark

There is big road around Baltic sea from Oulu to Kemi, Tornio Itäinen (SE-FI border) and Lulea in Sweden. It is one station and 58 minutes between Oulu abd Kemi by train. North from Kemi - usually all trains goes to Rovaniemi (one train per day from-to Misi and Kemjärvi). Trains to Tornio Itäinen and more north to Ylitornio, Pello and Kolari are extremely rare. Train from-to Misi and Kemjärvi do not stops between Kemi and Rovaniemi.

But there is road E4 from Oulu to Sweden. It is probably not so easy to find good place in Oulu, hitchiking from Kemi is better. Direction is to Tornio Itäinen, where is cropproad. E4 goes to Haparanda (first village in Sweden) and Tore (crossroad – E4 to Finland, E10 to north-west Kiruna, Narvik, and E10 to Lulea). Lulea is first train station in Sweden.Trains from Lulea goes to close town Boden, which is on long dancing line (Stockholm – Gavle – Hudiksvall – Sundsvall – Umea – Boden – Kiruna – Narvik). E10 and E4 together continue to south by baltic coast to Umea.

But we want to go from Kemi to North, by FI-SE border. So you take E4 only to Tornio Itäinen, and there is road E8 to Ylitornio, Pello and Kolari, the same line like train. In pello – road goes little bit away from FI-SE border. If you cath the train (it is not so easy), it does not matter, where you will be kicked out, it is always by road E8. Road E8 continue from Pello to Kolari and it is from Pello to Kolari one train station. Kolari (67,33 degrees north) is the northest Finish train station, it is one of four dancing lines, which cross Arctic circle. Buses and cars goes from Kolari further.

There is from Kolari main road E8 by SE-FI border to Norway and smaller road No. 80 to small town Kittilä. Road No. 80 continue from Kittilä to south-east to Sodankilä (Crossroad with E75 to Rovaniemi and Inari, E63 to Kemjäarvi in south and Road. No 80 to Kittilä). From Kolari E8 continues to Muonio, small town and there are some national parks around. From Muonio E8 continues by SE-FI border to Palojoensuu and Hetta, more north mall town Kätkäsuvanto (68.44 derees north). From Kätkäsuvanto goes E45 through border to Sweden to Vittangi and Svappavaara (small town, crossroad with E10 ). E10 goes from Svappavaara to Kiruna (only around 50 km west-west-north) and to Narvik, or to south goes E10 to Gällivare.

From Kätkäsuvanto E8 continue not so far to Markina with lot of small lakes in valley and more far to north-west by FI-SE border to area with bigger and bigger hills and mountains and plenty of lakes in valleys, to Kilpisjärvi. Kilpisjärvi (69.05 North) is small town in valley between mountains and close to two lakes. The point of three borders (Norway-Sweden_Finland) is around 10 km west from Kilpisjärvi. There is hotel in Kilpisjärvi – Kilpisjjärven Retkeilykeskus (Kilpisjärvi hiking center). The lake and mountains more than 1000 m high are really close. It can be possible to dumpster diving behind hotel. The place of SE-FI-NO border (69.05997 north,20.5485 east) - Treriksröset - meeting is by the another big lake Kolttajärvi. Mountains are joust around 500-1000 m high, but in this Arctic area mountains are already without trees and snow can be on the top quite late. Kilpisjärvi is in valley and there is sometimes cold Arctic air from east and warmer on top of hills. It can be bellow -40 in valley and -25 in mountains.

From Kilpisjärvi E8 continue North-West to Norway, to Atlantic coast. The nest village in Norway is Helligskogen by another lake and road E8 continue in valley through relative high mountains. Next village-town is Skibotn by Skibotnutløpet fjord, it is already on the coast, but still between mountains. There is gas station and big crossroad. E6 continue to south-south-west to Tromso, Bjerkvik and Narvik and Lofoten. More south is crossroad in Nodrdkjostbotn. E8 continues about 60 km to Tromso north-west by fjord coast and E6 continues south to Bjerkvik, Narvik and Lofoten islands. From Skibotn the road E6 goes to north of Norway – to Alta (69.95 north) and there is crossroad E6 with road No. 93 to East-South inside Finmark to Masi (end of big fjord-lake) and Kárášjohka close to Finish border. E6 goes from Kárášjohka by NO-FI border to Ustjoki, where is crossroad with E75 from Inari. E75 and E6 sontinues from Ustjoki by river and NO-FI border to Nuorgam (northest Finish poind) and to fjord, crossroad Varangerboth. From Varangerbotn E75 continue by north coast of Fjord to Vardoe (island) and E6 by south coast of fjord to Kirkenes.

From Alta north-East and from Kárášjohka north-west E6 goes to nordest point Olderfjord (70,47 degrees north). There is E69 from Olderfjord to nordkapp and E6 to Alta and Kárášjohka and Ustjoki. But from Olderfjord to north continues E 69 to north by coast of Atlantic to Repvaeg, Kaefjord and from Kaefjord is aaout2 km long tunnel to Mageroeya island. There is town Honningsvaeg and more north is small village skarsvaeg. E69 continue on this island to Nordkapp (71.1717 north, 25.8763 East by Google map), which should be nordest point of Norway and Europe. But on the map it looks like nordes point is myse around 7 km west-west north – Knivskjellodden (71.18547 north, 25.67638 East by Google map).

To Sami land and lakes, Ivalo, Inari, and Finmark – Norway (Tromso, Alta, Nordkapp, Kirkenes, Vardoe)

The last town with good train connection is Rovaniemi. North edge of Rovaniemi is on Arctic circle. Only once a day train go to Misi and Kemijärvi, but theese stations are out of main road E75, Rovaniemi is the best. Kemijärvi is close to big lake in Lapland. Misi is small town out of main road.

Hitchhiking on the road from Rovaniemi to north is good, amount of cars is good at least in Summer. There can be 3-7 cars per minute, lot of tourist from west Europe goes to north. Road E75 goes from Rovaniemi to crossroad in village Vikajärvi. Road No. 82 goes from Vikajärvi to east, to big lake and Kemijärvi, Misi is about 10 km south from this road. The main road E75 continues to nort, to Sami region.

First bigger town (not small village) is Sodankilä, around 67,4 degrees north. There is crossroad in Sodankilä. E75 goes south to Rovaniemi and north to Inari, E63 goes first to south-east but after a while to south – to Kemijärvi. The road No. 80 goes to Kittilä and from Kittilä to south-west to Kolari. Hitchiking in Sodankilä is good. Plenty cars go at E75 from-to north. Good point is bus stop at north end of Sodankilä. There is big shop, however dumpsters were not checked yet by PeterOB. Ammount of cars is good, few per minute during summer to north. Many tourist with caravan goes there too (to Nordkapp or Kirkeness often). Local drivers pick hitchhickers easily.

More north by E75 is Ivalo, around 68,55 degrees north. Ivalo is probably biggest town in Lapland, with a lot of Sami culture. There is crossroad before bridge. One road goes to east, Murmansk is 303 km far away, but Russian border is only 40 km away. There is K-Market by this crossroad, but PetterOB did not found dumpsters with food, just with glass or cans. Good hitchhiking place is behind river, bus stop near church. There are still about 1-3 cars per minute to north (Inari and more), include many tourist in Summer. People are nice here and hitchhiking is easy. Inari is 40 km far.

There are bit north from Ivalo (counple of 10km), around 68,75 degrees are two big lakes. Ukonjärvi lake close to road in east side and Rahajärvi in west. And finally, the Inari is around 68.9 degrees north, at E75, there is town Inari, town of Sami culture. It is about 350 km north from Arctic Circle and Rovaniemi. Inari is not so big town (about 1000 inhabitans). There is in Inari hotel (PeterOB does not found anything in dumpster behind hotel), and K-market. Dumpsters behind K-market are open, lot of black bags were inside. There is big lake close to Inari – Inarijärvi, river or bay through Inari, many small lakes and plenty of mosquitoes in Summer. Inari is in the middle of Sami culture and Lapland, many tourist from south goes there. Many Finish residents have huts there, so you can catch ride even between Helsinki and Inari, if you have. There is even airport in Inari, but in is not possible get in without ticket and it is non-ecological. Inari-Jarvi is super-big and there is river in inari too. Water is clean enough for drinking. There is Sami culture center and Sami museum (10 Eur entry). About 7 km from museum (including 4 km without car) is Wilderness Church. There is free shelter-hut with firewood. It is good place for sleeping. Good hitchiking place is at the end of Inari, bust stop behind river close to Sami Museum. There is crossroad – one small road by InariJarvi to many cabins and Wilderness church, and one road to North E75. Many cars goes by lake to cabins, on this small road to east, or many cars finish in Inari. Bus stop is just behind crossroad. Only about one car per 1-3 min goes to north, including summer tourist. And about 25 km after Inari, there are two crossroads.

E75 continues from Inari to Kaamanen. There is one crossroad just before Kaamanen, it is E75 to north and road 891 to SevettiJarvi and directly to East Finmark (Neiden, Kirkenes). Road 891 is by InariJarvi and many small lakes around. But there is just about one car per 10-10 minutes (in summer), not so many tourist (and some cars goes just by big lake). But it is anyway fastest journey to Neiden and Kirkenes or Russia. There is K-market by NO-FI border in small village, about 20 km before Neiden in Norway, close to Kirkeness. Big dumpsters are open there with all types of trash and food. Dumpster boton can be sometimes deep. Many people from Norway go shopping there, traffic from K-Market to Neiden (Norway) is good.

Kaamanen is just small village with few houses (2-3), and many lakes around. There is tourist shop before crossroad. In Kaamanen is imoprtant crossroad with road No. 92 to Norway – Karasjohka (North-West direction) ans E75 to north to Norway-Finish border – Utsjoki, Nuorgam, East Finmark. About 2/3 of cars include tourist goes to Karasjohka. There is Sami parlament and Sami museum and Sami Library in Karasjohka. It is too fastest way to Lakselv, Olderfjord, Alta and Nordkapp.

By E75 north from Inari-Kaamanem is river by E75 way and few Sami houses, lot of lakes. E75 continues to north, to Utsjoki. Utsjoki is around 69,91 degrees north. The river from Inari meets in Ustjoki with Tana river, which create NO-FI border. E75 meets in Ustjoki with road E6 from Alta, and Nordkapp, Lakselv, Karasjohka (west) to Vadsoe, Vardoe and Kirkeness, Neiden, Varangeboth, Tana Bru, Murmansk-Russia. There are about one car per 1-3 min towards Karasjohka by road 92. Hitchhiking here is good - spot in Norwegian side (crossroad). There is bridge to Norway through Tana river and custom house. It is possible to find some place under bridge in norwegian side in case of rain. There is too some house for free camping and making fire somewhere in Ustjoki. Ustjoki has one shop, but Peter does not find dumpsters behind shop.

From Utsjoki to Nuorgam and east Finmark (Varangeboth, Neiden, Kirkenes, Vardo)

There is big Tana river with clean water in Utsjoki. River is NO-FI border and there is bridge through river and it is possible to sleep under bridge in case of rain. Camping bi river is nice. There is one shop in Utsjoki, but PeterOB does not found dumpsters there. Utsjoki is big crossroad. There is road E6 in Norwegin side, it is 111 km to Karasjohka by river. About one car in 1-5 min goes to Karasjohka by E6, however hitchhicking is good. There is road to Karasjohka by river in Finish side too, but it is dubious, how many cars goes there, and how far. From Utsjoki goes road 891 to Nuorgam with one car in 2-5 minutes in Summer and good hitchhiking. Nuorgam is most north Finish village. Northest point of Finland is about 3 km from Nuorgam center to East, by river side (road goes from Nuorgam to Norway, to Skippagurra, where is E6). There are two K-markets with open dumpsters in Nuorgam. But all trash is together in dupster and it is question, how much food is there. E6-E75 goes by Norwegian river side through Tana Bru (bridge through river, village) and Skippagurra – crossroad with E6 through Finmark and road to Finland – Nuorgam, Utsjoki, Inari, Ivalo. Quite lot of cars (one per 1-2 min) goes by E6, Norwegian river side and about one car per 1-4 min ges through Nuorgam, by Finnish river side. Local people pick up hitchickers really good.

From Skippagurra and Tana Bru goes E6 to East, to big fjord (Varangebotn, Vardo, Vadso, Neiden, Kirkenes, Russia - Murmansk). Varangebotn is important place and crossroad with round about. There is road to west (Finland, Karasjohka, Nordkapp, whole Norway) and E75 continue by one side of Fjord to Vadso and Vardo. E6 continues to east - Neiden, permafrost valley, Kirkenes and Russia (Murmansk). E75 continues by coast of fjord to north-est - Vardo and Vadso. All direction on crodssroad has parking with place for stop and hitchhiking. There is fuel station, Cafe and Coop market close to this big crossroad. Coop market has dumpster behind, with lot of food, but dumpster is locked by wire. But it can be open with force by two persons or plyers are better. There is Sami museum and some tree area with walking path and shelters by fjord coast close to this crossroad in Varangebotn. It is possible to sleep in this shelters (tress, end of fjord, by Sami museum) in case of rain. On the main land, before tunnel to Vardo and close to Vadso is quite big reservation Varangerhalvoya on the main-land with lot of grass, moss and lot of lakes, but onle small trees.

Vardo is most east point of Norway, but not most east point of Shengen (it is in Finland, close to Joensu). Most east accessible point is coast (70.3722,31.1295), on the east part of iceland is military base Globus II with radar, most east point of Globus II (70.3669,31.1323). There are two islands - natural reservation Hornoya og Reinoya with lighthouse, but only ships goes there, it is about 1.7 km from Vardo by sea. Most east point is (70.3869,31.1682) Vardo is in north side of Fjord, on small island, there is almost 3 km long tunnel under sea. The road to Vardo is by the sea, with not so many hills. There is mostly grass with no tress, because of cold summer and wind from sea. Summer in Wardo is really cold, with 5-10 degrees only and strong cold wind often, and rain too. It is often big difference in weather between Vadso and Vardo, distance is only about 50 km. Vadso can have calm weather with lot of clouds and Wardo has strong wind or gale with rain and snow, big vawes (in summer, of course, in winter, ehm) Vadso is biggest town there, with 7000 people. There is by fuel station and K-market with close dumpsters inside Vadso and Rema 1000 with open dumpster behind, at the south end of Vadso, by direction to Varangebotn - there is good hitchhiking place. Vardo is town with 1500-2000 people. It is north-east edge and weather there is with really lot of rain and lot of wind. There are many islands around, with mos and gras only. Waves in Barent sea are big, but water is cold (6-10 degrees in Summer). And you can be wery cold in strong cold wind by Vardo, Gamvick or Nordkapp (Summer here is worse tham winter in Denmark).

There is small airport in Vardo on main land, before about 2800 m long undersea tunnel to vardo. There is crossroad by airport - road to Vardo, to Vadso and south and road to north by coast. This road do not have number and it goes through few really small villages on coast and road ends in Hamningberg (70.539,30.612). Traffic on this road is very low, 1-3 cars per hour in Summer and cold wind. Another small village is Syltefjord (70.551,30.078). There is no road from Syltefjord to Vardoe (East), but road 26 goes by river from Syltefjord to west, to road 891 and small town by coast Batsfjord (70.63,29.70). From Batsfjord goes road 891 to Tana Bru and E6. There is crossroad about 30 km from Batsfjord nowhere inland - road 890 to Batsfjord, mine by coast, and Tana Bru and road 890 to north to Berlevag on coast (70.862,29.085). From Berlevag goes road 271 to Store Molvik small village by coast (two cars per day ?). However traffic on roads to 890 and 891 to Batsfjord and Berlevag will be quite low, few car per hour.

Tana Bru or Tana is place, where big Tana river goes to Fjord - Barent sea. There is bridge through Tana River. Road 98 goes from Tana by coast to Mehamn, Gamvick and Lakselv, but with quite low traffic and bad weather - use E6. Road 890-891 goes to north coast to Batsfjord, Berlevag with pretty low traffic probably. E6-E75 east goes from Tana Bru to Varangeboth - Vadso - Vardo - Neiden - Kirkenes - Murmansk (Russia) and E6-E75 westt to Ustjoki - Inari - Ivalo - Karasjohka - Lakselv - Olderfjord - Nordkapp - Alta - Tromso - Narvik.

From Varangebotn E75 continues by south side of Fjord to Neiden, Kirkenes and Russia - Murmansk. Neiden is small village by river. There are waterfalls in Neiden, close to crossroad with road to Finland (Inari, Sevettijarvi). Many tourist stops for waterfalls. There is parking and few cabins and WC close to waterfalls. It is possible here to sleep by this hut in shelter, in case of rain. There is no shop or dumpsters in Neiden. There is crossroad in Neiden. Small road 891 goes to Finland, to SevettiJarvi and Inari, Ivalo. It is fast journey to Finland, but most of cars (one car per 2-5 min) goes just to NO-FI border, where is small village with few houses and K-market with big open dumpsters, there is lot of food in dumpsters behind K market. Only about one car per 5-20 min (in summer) continues to Sevettijarvi and Inari, Ivalo. From Neiden E6 continues to east to Kirkenes and Russia and to west towards whole Norway by road 891. There is big swamp, about 5 km wide, just 4 km before Neiden. It is only one permafrost - tundra place in Shenghen (permafrost continues from Russia). It is wide narrow tundra area with swamp and lot of water and ice few decimeters under surface. Anyway, it is dubious, where is ice and it is pretty dangerous to go inside tundra swamp. In winter - temperature in Neiden can be -43 and in permafrost maybe close to -50 (in Kirkeness only about -25). But weather in summer can be nice, 10-20 degrees, sometimes even 27 degrees, but lot of mosquitoes - their season starts usually after Juhanus fest (21-23 th June).

Kirkenes is bigger town in Finmark, with 10000 people and lot of Russian residents. There is fjord and sea in Kirkenes. At the begin of Kirkenes is lake with water jet and big supermarket. And supermarket has open dumpster just close to entering road. There is Sami cottage by the lake, just 200 m from shop and road. This Sami cottage is open town fire place and it is possible to sleep there in case of rain. There is bus stop close to supermarket too, it is good place for hitchiking. All is here by one place. Few kilometers before Kirkenes is crossroad, road back to west and road to Grense Jakobselv (church by sea and Russian border), town Jakobselv and Russian border. Murmansk is about 40 km away. But you need visa to Russia and all byrocratical stupid thinks. Border checking is very hard.

Journey to west Finmark, Nodkapp and Tromso, back to south

From Ustjoki continue E6 by FI-NO border to Karasjohka (111 km far). By roed E6 by Tana river, there is in the middle between Ustjoki and Karasjohka, about 20 km from road, highest mountain in Finmark - Rastigaisa (69.9982,26.2656, 940m) with snow whole year on the top. There is journey to Karasjohka in Finland too, but with less cars and many people goes for short way there. From Karasjohka E6 continues 73 km to Lakselv and more far to Olderfjord (70,47 degrees north). The good hitchiking place in Karasjohka is by Sami museum, Sami park, where is parking. About 1 car per minute goes to this direction by E6. There is crossroad close to Sami Park, E6 to Lakselv, Olderfjord and Alta and road 92 directly to Alta. But there are less cars (one per 1-4 min) on the road 92, good hitchhiking place is by Sami Parlament. There is K market with open dumpster downhill in Karasjohka, where all roads meets (from Utsjoki, Inari road 92 and from west road E6 and road E6 from east Finmark). But dumpsters were empty last time.

There is crossroad in Olderfjord. Olderfjord is place with crossroad – E6 to east (Lakselv, Karasjohka, Varangebotn, Vardo, Kirkenes) and E6 to south (Alta, Tromso, Lofoten, Narvik, Trondheim, Oslo, Goteborg, Malmo), and E69 to Nordkapp. Hitchicking there is easy. There is camp and parking by E69, many tourist go there towards nordkapp (one car in 1-4 min in June, winter season is dubious), and some Norwegian people goes there too. Many norwegian people goes to Alta and tourist too. Relative lot of cars goes to Lakselv and more far east too. There is fuel station and shop in olderfjord and camp, hotel too. But PetterOB does not found any dumpsters by shop or hotel. Shop is quite expensive.

From Olderfjord to north continues E69 to north by coast of Atlantic to Repvaeg, Kaefjord and from Kaefjord is about 6.85 km long tunnel to Mageroeya island. There is last town Honningsvaeg, about 30 km before NordKapp. You can see Nordkapp from Honningsvaeg. Theere is Rema 1000 shop in Honningsvaeg, close to airport and crossroad. Dumpsters behind Rema 1000 are open, but it is mixture with all trash and there is not so many food (PeterOB checks in June 2017). Th E69 continue on this island to Nordkapp (71.1717 north, 25.8763 East by Google map), which should be nordest point of Norway and Europe. But it is not true. On the map - nordes point is myse around 6-7 km west-west north – Knivskjellodden (71.18547 north, 25.67638 East by Google map). It is about 1.6 km more north by OSM. Howewer northest mise on this island is not so high and midningt Sun in highest position is better from Nordkapp.

Anyway - Honningsvaeg and Nordkapp with myse west from Nordkapp is already in island, it is most north point withouth ferry needing. Most north point from main-land is close to Mehamn - west myse about 10-15 km away from Mehamn (71.1334,27.6456, Island by coast 71.1336,27.6581), not Gamvik east myse about 10 km away from Mehamn with Slettness natural reservation (71.0964,28.1876). There is almost nobody and no ticket gate in these myses, but cold strong wind and rain. Road to Mehamn goes from crossroad about 2-3 km from Lakselv center to east, from crossroad road 98 to Ifjord with river Ifjordelva, from Ifjord goes road 98 to east, to Tana Bru by coast and road 888 to Mehamn (it split abou 10 km before Mehamn to road 894 west to Klollefjord and road 888 north to Mehamn). From Mehamn to east road 263 to Gamvik (71.063). Traffic on road 98 from Lakselv, Mehamn, Tana Bru is quite good, about one car per min in Summer. But traffic on roads from Ifjord to north (Klollefjord, Mehamn, Gamvick) can be much less and with strong cold wind.

There is ticket gate about 200 m before Nordkapp and every person in the car have to pay 280 NOK, it is more than Eur 30 (June 2017). You should jump out of car before ticket gate and walk around. Then you camp free in the camp with tent. Summer here is quite cold, with 2-7 degrees, pretty much clouds (midnight cloud instead of Sun), often with quite strong and cold wind. There is often strong wind and lot of rain (or snow) in Summer. But it can be rarely sunny and temperature 10-15 degrees. And winter is with lot of snow, clouds, northern lights and strong cold wind with snowing often, or even gale, but with temperature usually from -5 to zero, -10 is quite rare. There is complex - hotel, tourist info, cinema, museum with free entry in Nordkapp. But tourist center close at 1am and open at morning. There is free pacpack storage in tourist center, if you want to go for a walk (it closes 1am). Many tourist want see midningt Sun (or cloud), they leave after, but often with buses. It is difficult to hitchhike bus and buses are quite expensive (Eur 77 from Nordkapp to Inari). There is hotel, tourist centrum and restaurant, however PeterOB did not find any dumpsters. There can be some food in camp trashes.

From Olderfjord to south continues E6 to Alta and Skibotn. There is crossrad in Skibotn, E8 goes to thre-border point NO-FI-SE and Kilpisjärvi. From Kilpisjärvi E8 continue to Muonio, Kolari and Baltic sea (crossroad to Lulea (SE) and Oulu (FI) – crossroad by FI-SE border Tornio Itäinen).

From Skibotn E6 continues to Nodrdkjostbotn, where is another crossroad - E8 continues about 60 km to Tromso, north-west direction by fjord coast and E6 continues south to Bjerkvik, Narvik and Lofoten islands. There is beautifull fjord and some shops with open dupsters and fuel station close to road. However, there is no good place on the road (bus stop), where cars can stops easily. Traffic here is good, about 1-3 cars per min to south.

Bjerkvik is important crossroad with E6 from south to north Norway and road E10 from Kiruna (Sweden) to Lofoten islands. The road E10 between Kiruna and Bjerkvik is close to rail, so if you are kicked out from train, you can hitchhike. From Kiruna E10 goes sputh-east to Svappavaara, near by dancing line Stockholm - Boden - Kiruna - Narvik. From Svappavaara goes E45 to Vittangi and Kätkäsuvanto (68.44 derees north) in Finland, where is crossroad with E8 – south to Oulu, Kolari and north to Kilpisjärvi and Tromso. From Svappavaara E10 and E45 goes to Malmberget and Gällivare (and then more south), but not close to dancing line anymore. There is fuel station and K market by this crossroad in Bjerkvik, by direction to Luleaa, Kiruna (SE) and Narvik (NO). There are dumpsters open with lot of food behind this shop. However, there is not so good place, where cars can easily stops. Traffic here to south is good, about 2-5 cars per min, but not so many cars to Sweden (E10, Kiruna, Abisko, Luleaa, Boden).

From Nodrdkjostbotn is not so far to Narvik and Lofoten islands. And There is E6 going to whole north Norway (Tromso, whole Finmark, Nordkapp, Karasjohka, Varangeboth, Vardo, Kirkenes, Murmansk-Russia). It is too fastest way to north Finland, Lapland (Ivalo, Inari, Ustjoki, Nuorgam). From Nodrdkjostbotn continues E6 to south, to Bodo, Fauske and Trondheim by coast. It is long journey to Trondheim. Bodo is firs train station by NSB. But only two trains per day between Trondheim and Bodo goes in one direction. And in is 16-18 (or even 25) stops and about 10 hours.

In Narvik - good hitchhiking place to south (Fauske, Bodo, Mo-i-Rana, Trondheim, Oslo, Gotebrg, Malmo) is in the south of town. There is fjord-river and fuel station in every side of bridge. It is better to go more south, over bridge from Narvik - there is bus stop for hitchhiking and shops with open dumpsters behind with lot of food (bananas) (July 2017).

By E6 from Narvik to South - there is one place withouth bridge between Narvik and Fauske somewhere, about 7 km by ferry. Ferry goes quite often. It cost NOK 19 (Eur 2.3, in July 2017) per everyperson in car and car is more expensive. But they often let hitchhikers travel for free.

Arctic circle center 66.55 degrees north is about 60 km before Mo-i-rana, Bodoe and Fauske is behind Arctic circle. Many tourist stops there. It is little bit more high (about 500 m) - only grass and moss again, small tress only. There are mountains around, 1200-1900 m high. PeterOB does not found dumpsters by Arctic circle center (there is parking, hotel and restaurant).There is by the road railway Trondheim-Mo-i-rana-Fauske-Bodo with 2 trains per day in one direction (daily and night train).

Mo-i-Rana is bigger town 60 km south from Arctic circle. There is good hitchhiking spot (bus stop) at south end of Mo-i-Rana. It looks like bad place in hitchwiki, but it is not true. You can stack anywhere. Trondheim is still pretty far. Traffic south from Mo-i-Rana is good, 2-10 cars per min. There is Rema shop by this hitchhiking place, with open dumpsters. PeterOB fount there lot of bananas and bread in dumpster (july 2017).